The Syrian capital, Damascus isn’t much to write home, (or to the Broadsheet) about, but the old walled city, citadel, souks (street markets), beautiful Ottoman Azem Palace, impressive Ommayad mosque, and “Street named Straight” where the blinded St Paul met Ananias, were fascinating.
There are plenty of excellent places to eat – everything being much less expensive than in the UK, and for vegetarians, lots of tasty “mezzes”, but of course most restaurants are unlicensed.
Despite what President Bush might have said, we found the Syrians wonderfully friendly   and   hospitable.   We   constantly   heard:   “Where   are   you   from?”… “England”… big smile… “Welcome!” Street crime is virtually unknown in Syria. The climate in late October was great too, 23 – 27°C with a light breeze. Next we went north through the mountains to the Mediterranean, visiting Krak des Chevaliers, the largest and best preserved Crusader castle, and Ugarit, a 4,OOOBC city where the world’s first alphabet was developed. Turning eastwards towards Iraq we saw another amazing Crusader/Islamic castle, the famous water wheels at Kama, and huge citadel and labyrinthine souks in Aleppo. Then we travelled through the Roman caravan city of Apomea with its 2km colonnaded street, and along the Euphrates to the lost fortified cities of Rasafa and Halablye. Unfortunately our visits to Dura Europos and Mari had to be abandoned after the US killed 8 people in Mari (Smiles from the Iraqi border) 3 days before our visit, but the extra time in the fabulous Roman city, Palmyra, was especially rewarding. In Jordan, (much more expensive and touristy), we visted Madaba to see an extraordinary mosaic map, Mount Nebo, (where Moses was shown the Promised Land), and the ancient city of Jerash. Then 2 fabulous days in the incomparable Petra. The natural rock scenery is fantastic and the tombs, cave dwellings and temples astonishing. Further south we had a brilliant trip into the desert at Wadi Rum, first by 4×4, then camels, finishing up at a Bedouin encampment for the night. The Bedouin cooked for us in the traditional oven set into the ground, and we slept out literally under the stars – breathtaking. After a day in Aqaba on the Red Sea,  we headed north to  the Dead     Sea     before     visiting Christ’s  baptism site at “Bethany beyond the Jordan”.

The River Jordan was completely different from what we imagined, being little more than a muddy brook – not unlike the Cherwell in Banbury!
It was nevertheless a moving place to experience. Just a few reasons to visit Syria and Jordan.
Peter Little and Helen Cowmeadow.